Shompoo Cruise - Huay Xai

We were treated this morning to a view of the elephant camp across the river. The Mahouts were taking the elephants down for a bath. So exciting to see these magnificent creatures even from far away. I've decided I must go back to Pakbeng and participate in one of the elephant care programs. I don't care to ride them, but would enjoy an opportunity to be closer and to learn more about them. And Pakbeng is a beautiful little village with a few lodging choices and a lovely view of the Mekong.

The second day of the cruise was as lovely as the first. We stopped at a Kamu village...very poor. My only point of comparison is a Karen village in Thailand and I must say this was much poorer. I had nothing to give the children, so donated to the school. 

The cruise had nine passengers -- two groups of four--Russians and Germans. I thought perhaps someone would take me under their wing, but instead I was solo the entire time--all meals ALONE! It was a good experience I guess. I am learning very well how to eat ALONE at a restaurant. 

Last night at the Pakbeng lodge, I had cocktails with a group of French people who were on a tour of Laos. They were super nice! However, again, I dined ALONE at this relatively posh restaurant with courses served one at a time. It was all I could do to wait for all the courses to be served. But again, this is good practice

I've met many long-term travelers on this trip, which is inspirational. I definitely want to do a three-month trip when I retire, while I am still healthy enough to deal with a difficult place. 

Among those I've met:

1) German woman traveling alone for four months

2) two swiss ladies, my age, traveling together for 6 months

3) a brit guy traveling alone for 3 months

4) a Swiss (French) woman, 40, traveling for 6 months

5) A Quebecoise couple traveling for 4 months (and telling me about Yunnan China!)

I don't know if I have what it takes to travel   alone for months... I am told the internet makes it all possible, and certainly being able to install a simm crd from each country simplifies the world.

I had planned to stay three more days, but clipped my plans. I was going to do the one-night Gibbon Experience, but when I went to book, the lady told me I was too old. Well, not in so many words, but she said the age range was 12-50, and me at 65 am over the age limit. She said that it is a two mile climb up a mountain. Well, wait, she said it was a two-hour climb, which could be only a kilometer. Given that I have no recent experience climbing mountains, and given that everyone else there was in their twenties, I backed down. I am not proud of it, but then I am a pretty risk-averse person. There is another three-day program that does not involve the steep climb, but I was unwilling to forego Thailand and wait around in Huay Xai three more days. Also, the program is extremely expensive for the region ($200 for one night!) so I hesitated to throw that away in the event I couldn't make the climb.

Perhaps next time...after or before I visit the elephant camp, which is close by.

On a note of humor, when I got back to my hotel, the receptionist was laughing that they turned me away for being too old. He said, "you in good shape! I saw you walking up hill really fast!" He also said he had seen them take people much worse off than me. But aah, I hate to hold anyone up.

On my last morning in Laos, I contemplate this country. I would definitely come back to see more. It is very poor, but as a result, relatively unspoiled. Oh, I don't mention the garbage in the Mekong -- tons of it, or the trash heaps in the backyards of people whose houses back the Mekong. 

The country is not that well set up for tourism, which is part of its charm. There are surprises! Vietnam was so set up...mid-level hotels would almost qualify as luxury in the states with amazing service. For example, our hotel sent someone to actually get on the train with us to make sure we found our berths...and then kicked out a squatter! In Laos, if they had a train (??) we would have been on our own.

One reason I disliked my hotel in Luang Prabang was a somewhat surly attitude by the management. Only one person spoke English, but she was so reserved. 

I did hear a few other tourists mention this reserve...it must be a cultural personality trait, or perhaps the result of poverty or Buddhism? One woman I met (Swiss French, 40, traveling alone six months) was particularly struck by this and said the people in Nepal were amazing and always giving giant smiles. I hope to get there next trip.

One more thing: I don't really like Laotian food as much as Vietnamese and Thai. After Vietnam, disappointing. I am sure I have not tried the signature dishes that would change my mind. I do have the cookbook and will try to see if I can make something to enjoy when I get home.

Shompoo Cruise up the Mekong; Pakbeng Lodge

Today was lovely and interesting as I took a "luxury" cruise up the Mekong. We travelled 10 hours...through the muddy waters and saw fisherman, children, water buffalo, goats, villages, and even two elephants (not wild). The boat was nice, and  thank goodness functioned well. I had read horror stories of people packed onto boats like sardines for the 10-hour trip, so was happy that there were only 9 of us. Of course, I am the 9th, the single, with two groups of four. Definitely unbalancing! I am finding that I enjoy being alone though...it is not so different than my life at home. 

We stopped at the Pak Oi (sp?) caves to see the collection of buddhas. Apparently this cave began in the Hindu era but transitioned in the 16th century when buddhism came to Laos. I had my fortune told (because I had a translator handy). I cannot be sure what it really said, but it said I had a hard childhood (true), that my two children would be successful (true) and that I am healthy this year (no fevers) and that I would be happier married. He also said I am neither rich nor poor (true).

Of course I don't know what he left out!

Our two English speaking guides both learned English at the monastery. They are both Khamu and learned English at the Buddhist Monastery where their parents brought them when they were young. This is a familiar story in Asia it seems...the monestary serves as a vehicle for upward mobility similar to the  military in the states.

In March (and this is the month I am here)  there is slash and burn farming, leaving the air smokey. We saw lots of evidence of this on the ride up the mekong. I can't quite figure it out just by looking...I saw areas of a hillside where everything had been cut down ....but not burned. Other areas have been burned already. These are steep hills, so it will be difficult to farm! What are they growing here? I do not know. 

We saw large boats that transport cargoes of cinnamon from Thailand to Laos ... pretty cool. We all love cinnamon.

Tonight I stay upscale, but it turns out this is an isolated place so upscale is beautiful, but no aircon or wifi -- two essentials for me! But I am sitting here looking at the river with beautiful plantings and an elephant camp just across the river.

Shortly I go to the included dinner....surely sitting alone although the Russian contingent on the boat will be there too. Solo is different.

Luang Prabang Tak Bat, Cooking Class: Ballet

So I got up at 5:30 to see the monks collect alms from the citizens of Luang Prabang. Early morning very interesting (but not scary as it would be in the states). Someone was trying to sell me rice to give to the monks (no, not my style, if I give to monks, cook own rice), a tour company setting up little chairs for the tourists to sit in to give rice to monks, and so on. I did see a mother cat carry her quite large kitten somewhere. She was very frightened of me, understandably since I'm still not certain if they are food in Lao. 

I did eventually run into a kind person who told me that the monks don't show until 6:15, so I went back to my hotel for another cup of coffee and then ventured back. 

The monks, grouped by monastery (of which there are many) have collection bowls and collect food from the various folks who line the streets. I think they are collecting food for the day. Also, oldest monks are first, and then youngest are last. Some are children....the youngest I saw 13 or so. 

I don't know what to think of the whole thing. I took no photos out of respect...look it up. 

Later that day cooking class. Oh and did I mention I think I ate something bad yesterday so have roiling stomach. Thank goodness for the z-pak provided by my travel doc. Class was not nearly as good as Vietnam or Thailand and the food, once done, not so good either.

I did, however, taste ant eggs -- yum! Can't believe I tried them. This is because I ask too many questions.

In the evening I had tickets to the Lao ballet. Very very cool I enjoyed it way more than I thought even though parts (theater, proops) amateurish. The dancers were phenomenal, expressing all emotion via feet and hands. I am so glad I spent the time to see it. 

Luang Prabang, Temple Day

My third day in LP was totally open so decided to hit the tourist highlights:

1) Temple - Wat Xieng Thong

2) Climb Phu Si and visit the Wats along the way

3) foot massage

4) Royal Palace Museum 

5) Tribal Arts and Ethnology Centre

6) Night Handicraft Market

7) Hive Bar

8) Utopia

According to my iPhone's step counter, that was 24,000 steps...I think as much as 14 miles!

The temples...I should probably take a tour to understand the difference between these and Thailand. The ornamentation was interesting...a glass mosaic. It seems that every Wat has its own artistic theme. I know Wat Arun in Bangkok is made of dishes! 

The Royal Palace Museum was a reminder perhaps of why communism succeeded in this country (although truthfully, the U.S. is more communist)

The TAEC Museum had a small collection of tribal arts with some explanations. I watche a video about a Hmong medicine woman and about the resting period right after childbirth -- the woman sits by the fire for one month and rests and eats rice and drinks boiled water. 

The night handicraft market was mostly Chinese stuff (I think). I did buy a few scarves, but for the mostpart unappealing.

Hive Bar was interesting, but empty (okay it was 6:30 PM). Utopia took a long time to find...required a walk through windy back streets that didn't appear to be streets at all. It seemed to be a wonderland...jungle with tables nestled here and there and many different environments. I was of course the oldest and only alone person there. The staff was very sweet and put me at a low table with cuashions that allow you to recline! I certainly enjoyed recling after a day on my feet.

Arrive Luang Prabang

It turns out I am spoiled from the 10 days of luxury in Vietnam. Our hotels, tours, everything but the train ride were extremely pleasant. 

My room in Luang Prabang, though very well situated along the Mekong and a half-block from the Tak Bat (morning alms collection), is a bit sparse...toilet and shower room (meaning, shower, toilet, same, sink leaks out onto floor, encouraging one to just use the shower to wash one's hands since it all ends up on the floor anyway. Of course the room is very clean and has daily maid service and water. It's just very low-brow compared to previous. I came very close to changing, but when the internet came back on, decided to stay.

Walked around the city, found Ock Pop Tok, enjoyed sitting by the Mekong eating "river weeds."

There are two bamboo bridges in Luang Prabang connecting Luang Prabang with the opposite bank across the Nam Khan  River. I paid 7000 kip (about $1) to walk both ways. I must say it was awfully wobbly...it would never have gone over in the states. 

Weaving and Silk Dying

Barbara recommended classes at Ock Pop Tok, so my first few minutes in town, I signed up. A Tuk Tuk took me and three European women (also of a certain age) to the beautiful weaving village on the Mekong. We worked with natural materials -- wood, annatto, hemp, curcumin -- to make dies. We had pre-spun (thank goodness!) skeins of silk to dip in the vats of color.

The afternoon was spent weaving a silk placemat. Fortunately they set up the loom for us -- I'm convinced that's the most difficult step! They create intricate patterns in the loom by tying certain strings and not others. When you want to use the pattern, you use these string placeholders. Very complicated, don't totally understand.

I did most of mine myself. I had a full-time helper who kept reminding me when I was about to make a mistake and who helped untangle the thin silk threads (i'm sure a more experienced weaver would not have these snafus).

Today, two days later, my right leg -- the weaving leg -- is sore. Those women must be very strong!

Red bridge cooking school

Lazy day in hoi an / beach

The beach at Hoi An was the trip's biggest surprise. You would think I would have looked at a map! I hadn't been to the beach in years, and not to a gorgeous, unfettered beach since Macaroni Beach in Mustique in 2012 (?)

We ended up going three or four times -- almost every day! The beach has maybe a dozen restaurants fashioned out of bamboo. All have bathrooms and showers in the far rear. On the beach side they have chairs (use for free if you eat at the restaurant) and umbrellas (Palapas? can't think of word). It was so lovely to NOT HAVE high rises and concrete all around -- all of the structures were quite temporary. 

The water itself was lovely and not too much surf, which is nice for us old folks.

I would love to go back to Hoi An and spend time at one of the beach guest houses...a beach vacation. 

Hoi An itself was very hot and it was taxing to walk around. Also, the shops were quite repetitive...I ended up not buying anything even though I was tempted by lanterns. I decided, however, that I could probably order those lanterns when I get home via eBay.

Days 6,7,8 Hoi An

Hoi An is a lovely historical town in central Vietnam, just 40 minutes from Da Nang. We heard that during the war, Americans were told not to bomb the city, so many of the old shops remain intact. The city was a trade center between Vietnam, China, and Japan and remains a shopping mecca. 

It is also a food mecca and, although the town sits on a river, it is a few miles from a sandy ocean beach.

Hoi An also has an enormous market complex where fresh vegetables, meats, fabric, and so on are sold. There is also an extensive "food court" in the market.

Our hotel is lovely...apparently it is standard to strew bathroom and bedding with flowers and flower petals...we also have five fresh flower arrangements in our room.

We meet Missy -- our friend from the Halong Bay cruise for dinner at Miss Ly's restaurant. One of the owners, Nathan, was enchanted by Barbara due to her Alaska connections, and got us in without a reservations - turning away many others.

Day 5: night train

We thought we had booked the private tourist "Livitrain," a car that hooks onto the Vietnamese Railway Train. Even though more expensive than flying, it seemed like a good way to see the scenery during the daylight portion.

Our hotel, which kindly booked the train for us, clearly misunderstood our request, and put us on the Vietnamese Railays "soft bed" train -- probably luxe by Vietnamese standards but a little scary for us greenhorns.

We had a four-person berth. We shared the entire trip with a lovely Vietnamese woman in her twenties who acted as our translator and guardian angel. 

She made certain our berth was locked against marauding freeloaders and vendors (we think, who knows really) and possibly thieves. Through the night, various people got on and off the one empty berth in our coach. 

The bathrooms were dirty and fundamental and ran out of toilet paper early in the evening. 

In the morning, a vendor came around with bags of hard-boiled eggs...fertiilized duck eggs and chicken eggs. I chose the duck egg (photo below) but was not able to finish when I bit on a hard piece...what was it?

I was, though, able to rest from the lingering effects of the stomache virus...12 hours prone is exactly what the doctor ordered. 

The scenary between Hue and Danang was remarkable. Many miles of unfettered coastline below us...the land smothered in kudzu vines above it. 

It was not the worst travel experience of my life, for certain, although at triple the price of an airplane, not to be repeated.

We got a car beteen Danange and Hoi An.. Hoi An, a little gem.

Day 4: Halong Bay; Long Duc Village Stay

Sadly, I was struck by a stomach virus this morning, so missed the side trip to the floating village and pearl farm. Please ask Barbara for details and photos.

Fortunately, I was able to watch the stunning scenery  as I rested. Never has illness been so scenic!

Our next stop was Long Duc Village - I had booked this "extension" on the Halong Bay Cruise without fully understanding what it was. All of our fellow passengers were going back to Hanoi and we were very nervous about sleeping in a rice hut that night -- particularly since I wasn't feeling well. 

Happily we did not sleep on mats that night but were instead treated to an intensive 24-hour introduction to Vietnamese farm life, complete with deluxe accommodations and amazing meals.

We were the only guests at the farm. Thuy, our 28-year old guide was charming, and welcomed us with Vietnamese herbal tea ... a restorative blend which contained licorice and many other herbs I did not recognize.

We then did a three-hour tour of the village including a visit to Mr. The, a 78-year old who also served us herb tea and showed us his family tree and shrine. The highlight of this was a photo of his brother with Ho Chi Minh. His brother, now deceased, had served as body guard for "Uncle Ho."

The experience introduced us to Vietnamese Buddhism which is very complex and involves keeping keeping track of the ancestors with a full-wall family tree that records five generations of Mr. The's family.

On our walk through the village we discussed the plants that were growing...betel nut, betel leaf. Apparently the combination kept the villagers warm in the damp Hanoi winters when warm clothing was rare. We had quite a discussion about an herb I know as mugwort, and they know as sage grass. We covered the various fruits and vegetables growing in the fields as well as the farming techniques.

Thuy took us to a spot where a family demonstrated the old way of husking and milling rice. Today the farm uses machinery to accomplish this. (note: we were served the rice we husked in our breakfast porridge the following day).

We also saw how the villagers capture fish from the ubiquitous ponds (and were served the fish for dinner).

Our dinner at the farm did not disappoint and was even better (if that is even possible) than our cruise meals.

The following day we outfitted in Vietnamese straw hats and plastic raincoats and bicycled through the rice paddies (on concrete roads) to the local markets through the drizzle. 

We visited another villager - a 76-yearold woman   -- and stripped the green bits off of coconut fronds. These fronds went into brooms. Coconut brooms are needed in the north because they don't absorb water...winter sweeping.

Another gourmet lunch and we packed and attended the local water puppet show. Seeing the show in a "farm pond" seemed rather authentic...the charmng art form was apparently invented by farmers.

Back to Hanoi for some more practice walking calmly among moving motorcycles and on to the night train to Danang!