More Lanta, on to Bangkok and Tokyo Soon

Still on Lanta hanging with the European tourists. I think the people who come here are generally refugees from the cold rather than tourists or travelers. It's nice, don't get me wrong, but not that interesting.

Yesterday we went to two of the population centers: Lantatown and Ban Saladan. Lantatown was very small and quiet -- the east side of the island. Ban Saladan is a hopping tourist town with multiple 7-11s, grocery stores, hotels, and bars. Both of these places are very far from our hotel with very expensive cab rides, so I don't think I would go there regularly if I stayed here. You'd have to have your own motorcycle or car to make it cost effective.

Did buy a pretty hand-made batik and some a really lovely sarong for a man...made near Bangkok, they are telling me hand woven. I will pass on the batiks, but will try to hang onto the men's sarong.

Last night ate at a seafood restaurant -- the best in town -- and next to us was a Thai family. Everyone was on their devices..the Dad, the children, but not the mom. Oh and Nikki was on her device.

Another gorgeous sunset

Koh Lanta -- Lanta Palace

What to say? We're in a beautiful spot on a sandy beach with minimal waves, a constant warm temperature, a swimming pool, and beach chairs. The Lanta Palace is past its prime -- way past, but who cares? The rooms are comfortable, they have a hot pot to make hot drinks, the air conditioning is good, and, and I can't overstate this, they have a gorgeous beach and pool.

Okay, today I went next store to the very luxe resort. They have the very same beach, but the pool, and the waiters bringing drinks, and the gift store with handmade Thai hill tribe gifts...it was all so special. And I wanted to stay so bad...but the pricetag? I don't know, but not $42 per night including breakfast, I promise.

It seems most people here are European, and not friendly. One older couple spoke with Nikki, but not me... All day together, and all night, no conversation. I had been led to believe that lower end = better friendships. And throughout this trip this has been generally true. But here, couples, families, not sure what it is, a determination to be together for the couples? No clue. But I don't feel part of the European group exactly. And I wonder...the folks next door must have a lot more money...the perfectly maintained pool, the villas, the gift shop. Everything is luxury. Here, it is loving decay. Would I make more friends there? Less? No clue.

The beach at Koh Rok --- it is a national park

View pool and beach, Lanta Palace, approaching sunset

Sunset, Koh Lanta

Three beach kitties. They belong to a restaurant. 

Krabi to Koh Lanta

We were happy to leave Ao Nang/Nopperat/Railay -- too many crowds. On the last day I discovered some rentable beach recliners close to food and massage and with a view of the ocean, but the rest of the time it was walking around searching for a decent place to sit and read. 

Our place in Koh Lanta is just the opposite -- right on the beach, swimming pool, no issues with tides. The place itself - Lanta Palace- has seen better days but the rooms are comfortable and the location is excellent and the price is right at $40 a night. 

But first, the ferry. I assumed ferry was something like we have in the Northwest with the cars going on and the large areas up at the top for gazing into the water and the coffee shop and so on. This was a tiny boat with two floors and bus-type seating. At least everyone had a seat. The luggage was piled into every single crevice available and also piled onto the tiny deck. I kept thinking. "Syrian Refugee" but of course they have it far worse and are not really traveling voluntarily. The "ferry" kept stopping to pick up and drop off passengers in the middle of the Sea -- Longtails took them out to meet the ferry. There was no help with baggage, although I got a tip from Barbara that the trick is to get out a 100-baht note and just stand there and folks will magically appear to help you.

You can walk a long ways on this beach, but there are jottings of rocks in many places that require you either walk up to the road to pass or I guess swim around them. The water is warm and the surf very light. None of the clear blue water, though, it's greenish here.

Yesterday I went on a beach walk and ran into a group of young Muslim girls -- maybe 30 of them in full black burkas, but with faces exposed. They were gleefully going for.a swim in full regalia including socks! It was quite amusing seeing dozens of black figures in the water frolicking about -- of course my association is with nuns, so I kept thinking that Fellini would have enjoyed this scene and written it into a movie. No photos, I didn't have my camera, but wouldn't have invaded their privacy anyhow. There were a circle of them talking to a little Scandinavian (probably) girl in a swimsuit. I suspect the girls were practicing their English. Everyone was happy, the little girl in the swimsuits and the fully covered teenage girls. I did see some little girls swimming without burkas, but saw another with a cloth wrapped around her head. I am embarrassed I don't know the rules. Although, I think there are different rules for different sects as in all religions.  This is the first time I've seen the black burkas in Thailand -- more typically you see the jibab only to distinguish Muslim women.

There are many babies here. In our airport shuttle there were two babies under one and a four-year-old. Given that I perceived the ferry to be treacherous, I was surprised at the parents' lack of concern. I talked to them about this, letting them know that I would be surprised to see American families traveling budget like this. Of course I have no idea...Americans would not come this far for a beach vacation, but would opt for Mexico or the Caribbean. One of the mothers said that their parents had objected, and given their parents are my age....

At any rate, they were all taking very long holidays with their babies...a nice thing!

Scene from the ferry, not the luggage on deck

Sunset, Koh Lanta

Sunset2 Koh Lanta

Ao Nang, Railay, etc.

We were not impressed. The tides were out at least a kilometer, making it a hike through some rubble and plastic and sea slime to take a swim. At the same time the sand was moist, indicating that the tides would eventually reach the edge of the beach, so a sit down was never safe from the tides (and wet!)

In addition, the "strip" was dirty and tacky. 

To top it all off, our hotel, ineptly called "Krabi Forest Homestay," was not in a forest, and not a Homestay. It is a motel! Think Motel 6! In spite of the relatively expensive price tag ($50), no breakfast included. Nikki was freaking that the air conditioning wasn't pulling the temperature down and that, together with terrible beach, prompted me to plan an escape to another location. 

The little blue dot who's you where we are, right in between Ao Nang and Nopperat beaches

Eventually we calmed down, the air conditioning worked, the tides came in. I will say that I would never return to this place. I said that about my last Southern Thailand adventure, outside of Phuket, and now I'm saying it again. Hmmm. It will be interesting to see what Koh Lanta brings.

My first full day, I took off to Railay beach, a place that is only accessible by boat. This is remarkable, because the entire place is developed meaning that all building materials, and food, and water must be shipped in. The beaches, though, are much more beautiful, and one of them (Hat Tham Phra Nang) is purportedly the most beautiful beach in Krabi. I think that is correct, but there were many people there to enjoy the beauty! 

I did do some snorkeling, but there don't seem to be any live reefs here, although some fishes. Swimming out to the rock below is a challenge because the longtail boats drive by, which could potentially kill you. My first day there I did swim out, and only when I got back did the boats start rumbling by, eliminating the desire to swim out there again.

The beach of Hat Tham Phra Nang, which was enormously crowded yesterday with Europeans.

The boat trip to Railay, note that long tail boat in the foreground....this is what we were on. You have to wade into the water and climb aboard the boat. This trip is not for the old or infirm! 

Haven't had any great food here. Last night we went to restaurant that Lonely Planet calls one of the best seafood restaurants in the world. It was good, but not great. Perhaps I ordered wrong.

Again, Bangkok

I really do like Bangkok. Been staying at J No. 14 Guest house in a great, real neighborhood in Bangkok, just down the street from the Peninsula Hotel, so you know it's prime real estate. The street is lined with food vendors -- it is an all-day all-you-can eat buffet as far as I am concerned. I love the fact that everyone buys their food on the street much of the time and cooking is only normal for the vendors. The other night our hosts a J No. 14 were eating a dinner in the public space and I asked if they cooked it. The son (I gotta get names here) laughed and said, no way, it's from the street.

I ventured out to on the Skytrain. Wow, a huge, modern, air conditioned mass transit system that runs every 5 minutes. Philly could learn a lot from them. I suspect there are millions of people living in Bangkok who cannot afford to travel on the Skytrain though. The tickets for the trains I took ranged from 50 cents to $1.50 -- that could be several meals in Bangkok.

J No. 14 is filled with animals, both dead and alive. The walls and tables are covered with specimens of bugs and butterflies and there is a shocking stuffed doe awaiting you in the lobby. The owners have little chihuahuas, Pekingese, and it seems frequent small dog visitors. I recall 5 Pekingese being sheltered there on my first visit. 

There were also kittens! Beautiful, Siamese-faced white and marmalade kittens that I fell in love with (sorry Mini, Zoro, and Tama!). I bundled them all in my hand and realized that I miss my kitties from home. I haven't been homesick at all on this trip, but this little brush with familiarity brought on a few waves of nostalgia for home. No mind, I will be there soon enough!

One one of my subway forays, I saw the Erawan shrine, a bizarre hindu-seque shrine situated at the corner of a five-star hotel -- prime real estate for sure. Worshippers bought incense and flowers to lay on the shrine and there was lots of praying. In addition, there was a Siamese music and dance troupe performing -- I suspect for tourists?  Sorry no photos.

The shot below I ran across while walking back from the Jim Thompson house (rating 2, way too crowded!). Love the fact that they actually have a sign for this, I guess indicative of the graft in the country.  

I drank A LOT of Thai iced teas...price ranging from 15 baht to 100 baht depending on the vendor. The good vendors make these from scratch with real tea (they have a cotton filter and hot water) and you can ask to hold the sugar, which means that only the sweetness from the condensed milk comes through -- can you imagine adding sweetener on top of the condensed milk?

Also went to a swimming pool at the Mellinium Hilton nearby... Nikki and I went there on her first day so she could literally cool her jets a bit. The pool has a great view of the river, a great perspective on Bangkok's tourist areas.

Finding a sit-down place for dinner is a challenge in the land of street foot, but we found a fabulous seafood place where we accidentally ordered plates and plates of giant shrimp.

The soup below was fabulous, plenty spicy.