Penang - the Food

I owe a huge apology to Barbara who wanted to come here two years ago. I, with no real knowledge, nixed the idea. “It is a Muslim Country, they hate us,”

It turns out I was wrong about that, at least when it comes to the average citizen — be they Muslim (typically ethnic Malay), Hindu, Buddhist, Christian, Chinese, Indian, and so on. The people here are typically lovely, although of course there are exceptions.

I think people here do rally around the food and it’s easy to begin an animated conversation around the topic. My cabbie from the airport, for example, gave me a long list of hawker centers and dishes to try, including one quite near my hotel. He even remarked on the self service required of “the left-handed char Koay Teow” Vendor. All know where the best this and that are sold. When I was eating the famous left-handed char Kuay Teow, a woman of Indian descent and her grandmother not only helped me order two different types of cendol (the best of the best, they all say so I had to have them), but gave a running commentary on the best stands and restaurants. They both ate unashamedly in spite of the relative portliness of the young lady. They are serious about foods.

So, what is char kuay teow? It is rice noodles, cockles, shrimp, and Chinese sausage (in some places...it’s made of pork so unacceptable to Muslims and some Hindus so alternatives are available, ie my left handed chef. The egg, either chicken or duck, is optional. The rest..a few bean sprouts and a lot of magic sauces and oils. The closest I can describe is what some Thai restaurants call drunken noodles (although I hear the real thing is not noodles???) I’ve developed quite a fondness for rice noodles,which was enhanced by my own attempt at a stir fry using them. Skill is required, they are sticky and gooey and you would never know this based on the moves by our left-handed chef.

I thought I had a photo of my noodles, but seems not. Here is a photo of the sign.


The Best Cendol in Penang. There is also a Coke it it version which I did not capture. You are seeing ice, corn, grass jelly, red beans, other jelly things that I cannot name but which taste quite good.

What is cendol? (Pronounced chendol). It is a little shaved ice, piled with a conglomeration of jellies, beans, and noodles, sometimes corn, and often coconut milk and sugar. This is all based on my experience of eating this cool in temperature because of the ice dessert food. Yes, you can get this at Asian restaurants in the states, but you will never find a vendor who has dedicated his/her life to perfecting the treat. I heard from an authority (Pearly, who taught my cooking class) that the cendol I had was the best of the best. Here I must claim inexperience. I have eaten so few in my life...my children are more experienced in this area...

So there is other food too, lots of it, most of which I did not try. I only have one digestive system and I think I need several in order to impress foodies with my experiences. I did eat at two vegetarian Indian restaurants and a Chinese, highly prized place. 

Rice, morninglory with shrimp, and chili pork from Teksen, a popular Chinese restaurant.

And right now I am eating char Kway Teow from the New Lane Hawker stall. Note takeout on banana leaf. Bon appetit.

 

Blooming Lotus Yoga Retreat

Lisa Flynn, our main instructor, radiated good health and enlightenment. I suspect we all wanted to be her, based both on her appearance and her blazing yet gentle spirit. Attendees came from the U.S., Canada, Australia, and Europe. We were older than the oldest by 20 years and the only ones who read the instructions to wear white. Oh, let’s not forget 20 lbs heavier!

The food, vegan, was delicious and fresh. The tempeh, in the land of its originators oh so lovely and the freshness was everywhere. I especially enjoyed the granola, (which I never have due to portion control problems).

Our room was quite tiny with two quite large twin beds in the mix and no place to hang clothes. I offended fellow travelers by hanging clothes line from a tree in order to get a few things washed. 

Each villa had its own pool, which was good for me. I like to cool off at night with a dip. There were three rooms per Villa. One roommate was a transplanted nederlander-transplanted Turkish(?) to Paris and the other two Aussies. Everyone was lovely and accomplished.

Teaching was wonderful... it was mostly meditation, I think for good reason. Based on the beautiful bodies at the retreat, I suspect everyone has a pretty strong practice of yoga or other physical activity. For me what stood out was the meditation practice. It did not hurt that our instructors were incredibly lovely and the food extremely pure.

I sadly have no photos save this group shot.

Also, we decided many of these very very young women (compared to us) Were pretty high-powered... For example, multiple gold medalist and Olympic world record winner, planner of world economic summit at Davos, entrepreneur, accountant for the entire cheesecake factory franchise and so on.

In spite of our advanced age compared to the rest of the group, we both agreed it would be beneficial to return for a full week. We have maintained our meditation practice for a full week since we left. It is hard to argue with the incredible brightness of our teachers.

Bali - Seminyak

Seminyak

Bali performs as promised. After a chaotic airport arrival (relative to Singapore,) we went to Seminyak, a “quieter” beach town. The sand was black with a long stretch of sand at low tide and garbage everywhere except in front of the hotels. I never went fully into the water, but instead enjoyed a single beach walk and several sunsets at high- and low-end establishments. I’m happy to know there are still simple waterfront beach clubs, only bits and pieces are torn up by high rises. There are also tiny restaurants and bars along the beach.

Our guest house was lovely (Villa Kresna) with a sweet dipping pool. Due to reservation mixups, we ended up being moved to a two-bedroom suite with full kitchen and private dipping pool. Oh thank the lord, I did not want to leave the hotel. We did, but only for breakfast and dinner at the beach. Oh and the partying! I think aussies rent these villas to party hard and dip naked, the music and laughing went on until the dawn, but the mornings were blessedly quiet. 

Our private dipping pool


View from Balcony

Beach walkers at sunset


Sunset from our fancy Italian restaurant


The giant concrete Ganesha couch in our villa




Fancy Italian Meal


Fruit plate

Singapore, Summarized

Arrival March 1: Such luxury here. My flight arrived 12:40 am and I swear I was in my hotel room by 2:00 am, including a 30-minute taxi ride. No lines at immigration, helpful employee steering me away from the luxury cab (ha! How could he tell?)

Our room is microscopic, reminds me of a newer Japanese business hotel. .. tiny room chock a block with modern conveniences. It is clean beyond all expectations, but tiny for two people.

I am really taking it easy here...went to grocery store and brought fruit and then did a little swimming in the hotel lap pool. I will never travel in South Asia without a pool again, Call me a brat, it is a psychological necessity.

Barbara arrived at noon and we decided to walk the 1.2 miles to the China Center, one of many “Hawker Centres” in Singapore. Hawker Centres are conglomerates of street food...usually indoor, multistory markets with many stalls, each featuring a small menu. Or, more succinctly, food court. It was devilishly hot, walking through Singapore’s pristine streets, past colonial buildings, an Armenian church, and a giant display of dogs celebrating Chinese New Year. 

Green wall, typical of modern Singapore



Chinese New Year of the Dog

The food, sadly, did disappoint. Me, hainin chicken and rice is a signature dish of Bali. It was good, the rice was excellent and flavorful as was the chicken. Barbara got noodles. She tried a few other times as did I. I just don’t care for Singapore-style noodles,which are roughly the size, shape,and flavor of spaghetti.

The Botanic Gardens

We sweated our way through these artfully designed gardens, although the heat. I think jet lag played a role here, but it was tough to truly enjoy amidst the oppressive heat and humidity. Nevertheless we enjoyed.

Orchid garden

Little India

My favorite part of Singapore, with a cup of chai (tea masala) available everywhere. We ate at a South Indian vegetarian restaurant and shopped the five-story, 24-hour air conditioned Mustafa Mall for pure white clothing for our yoga retreat.

Vegetable Dosa Little India

Zoo

I wanted to see the tapirs, a shy Malaysian animal and we saw that and more. The zoo is phenomenal with many animals roaming about freely. They also had vegetable gardens and a very sad, hot polar bear.

Tapir, related to elephant, check out the feet.

Orchard Road

We went because it is the heart of Singapore. You can buy anything.

Gardens by the Bay, Satay by the Bay, the Harbor

The iconic view from Gardens by the Bay


Lighted dogs (Gardens by the Bay)


Harbour - 1,000 Ships pass through daily



Satay stand, Satay by the Bay



Garden Viewpoint, that’s a Kingfisher



Towers at Gardens by the Bay

Shophouses

Old Singapore must have been full of shophouses, with storefronts on the first floor and sleeping quarters upstairs. They have thankfully retained sections of this history, both in Little India and in the colonial district near the Raffles Hotel (closed for construction).

The old and the new