9/11 to 9/13 Carcassonne

The first thing I noticed rolling into Carcassonne on the sncf train was the view of the old city. What is that yellow stuff? I figured it was some kind of art, but what? Why would you deface the city like that? 



We kept seeing it from all directions, without a clue of the intention. In fact, our dinner mate at the Notre Dame de Abbaye dinner showed a photo that seemed to be the ultimate intention of the artist. It was similar to that below, but not quite.




On our last night we explored, trying to get the ultimate photograph and came upon this view. Voila voila voila. No one had prepared us for this view to be sure. It doesn’t look real does it?

Carcassone done in yellow aluminum tape.

But wait, there’s more. Last year we stayed at a pretty hostile little B&B near the train station, sadly pumped up by Rick Steves somewhat mistakenly I think. This year, thanks to last year’s research, we stayed at the Notre Dame du Abbaye, right outside the old city. The beauty: as a pilgrim, a bed and two meals is only Euro 25. We stayed two nights, so paid euro 19 for the second night, plus maybe euro 5 for breakfast. Hurrah! For this we had a dorm room. We actually had a male roommate, Christian I. We felt quite sad for him, a pilgrim sharing with three women. We had dinner with him, but he skulked out at dawn, cannot blame him.

Okay there’s more:

The gargoyles, this from the official cathedral, though there are plenty more churches.

This is the wall outside of Notre Dame d‘Abbaye.




Can’t stop with the painted city 

Still can’t stop.

The other thing is that when you walk outside the walled city, in an old, but not-as-old part of town, you find a lot of abandoned, or for rent shops. It is remarkable...this is a tourist town, it is the main city on the map in the region but yet it is struggling in parts. 

9/18, Pamiers to Montégut-Plantaurel, 11.8 miles, 46 floors

Today we marched through Pamiers into the city center where surprisingly a little farmers market was taking place. Jenny bought a delicious, but expensive brioche that tasted of oranges. It will be our lunch tomorrow....

We had a few false steps, but then successfully made our way out of the city, over the Pont Neuf, and up up up the hills. I sucked in all the water I brought...1.2 liters or so in the first hour....it was hot and steep! 

At the halfway point we stopped in the village of Saint Victor Rouzaud for lunch. Thankfully they had potable water for us since I had siphoned through my allotment pretty quickly. One thing we learned yesterday from our lovely host Anne, is that you can always get potable water in the cemeteries. Good information for thirsty pilgrims.

The highlight of the day was the sheep. At the end of the day we passed many hundreds of sheep. Many had bells, maybe 10%, but they made a racket .... a symphony of bells, some staccato (in the woods...what was going on?) and some clanging randomly. I could imagine a symphony being inspired by the wonderful clanging. Dozens of the sheep were sheltered under a copse of trees next to a creek. Some were resting, others drinking water, and again, others activities were unknown. 

A view of sheep.

Ok, so tonight we are at a donativo house...room and board, pay as you wish. It is a funky place decorated like crazy. I have the elephant room....

So dinner tonight was quite spectacular. We asked for vegetarian, and our hostess, Katie, gave us quite a show. For starters, cantaloupe slices with a cucumber salad on the side, plus a cauliflower salad. Next, a petit pois soup, followed by some fried Ceps foraged by our co-pilgrim Christian (Christian II on the pilgrimage). Next we have a ‘melange’ of cabbage, cheese, and fromage blanc. All served with a lovely rose. Next comes the cheese course and finally, a fruit cocktail served with a pound cake.

I am full. thank you. 

Our little group of pilgrims 

The ceps that Christian foraged today (hey, I saw some too but don’t know my mushrooms so didn’t pick(

Christian cutting the ceps.

More posturing. Dinner was super fun with lots of giggles. Three Americans with no French, two Frenchpeople with no English, plus rose. Super fun.

Good night.

9/17, Vals to Pamiers, 13.5 miles, mostly flat

Dinner in Pamiers, an amazing pasta salad, cantaloupe, bread, Rose, cheese

Jenny walking down the rock bridge

Taunya walking up the rock bridge

A rest on the trail

Selfie with Christian iii, a Dr, and Car collector that we met in Sain Amadou

Christian with British WW II Army Mototcycle

French Car made by American expat


Insidechurch at vals

Vault paintings





Outside church in Vals

Goodbye Catalonia, On to Carcassonne

So Barcelona is filled with the flags of Catalonia. Many of the leaders Celt buildings are draped with them along with yellow ribbons. I know very little of the conflict, or why, but I do know that last year they voted to secede from Spain. The authorities threw a bunch of people in prison where they remain...therefore the yellow ribbons. Today, September 11, is Catalonia day and 400,000 people are scheduled to protest the Spanish government in Barcelona. Last night there were helicopters hovering over our hotel in some type of preparation for the event. We were told we may have trouble getting to the train station.

When we went outside, hundreds of people in orange shirts were milling about. Families, individuals, groups...some had the Catalonia flag draped over their shoulders a la Superman. 

In spite of this, we had no issue getting about, and are a little bit sad we will miss the protest.

See the flag? I mean the building is a national treasure, right? But it seems to be claimed by the Catalons.

Ok, Carcassone. We are on the train there, making a change in Narbonne. Without a proper ticket, we are a little worried about changing trains...

We hope we have reservations at the Notre Dame de Abbaye, the beginning of the pilgrimage.

Barcelona

We are staying on La Rambla, a busy walking street that extends a kilometer or two perpendicular to the harbor. We have a little balcony overlooking La Rambla, used for drying laundry, but also for the lovely cityscapes. we are high up, so no bugs and we can keep the doors open at night.

Our first night Tapas were asparagus, peppers, amazing blue cheeses, tortilla batata, and for me sardines. And of course Vino Tinto. I guess the food was okay....two groups of tourists dropped in to taste the cider.

Part of our first tapas....local blue cheeses and bread.

Our room was on the fifth floor of a hotel, overlooking La Rambla, where George Orwell reportedly stayed. (We did get the scoop on this...the hotel moved several years ago, so the George Orwell room was up the street.) We had a balcony with a view of La Rambla and a good portion of the city. Bathroom down the hall, but no problem, we had a private room to ourselves in a fabulous location.

Taunya posting just outside our balcony.

There is a lot going on on La Rambla for many hours in the day...sorry, had to take a photo of more food....this a pastry shop selling faux cans of sardines.

This is a pastry.

The streets around La Rambla are narrow, without cards, and many open up onto squares. There are Roman ruins sprinkled here and there. Everything is stunningly beautiful. I keep thinking that most of the people in Barcelona are artists. So much decorative arts on all the streets and buildings. You understand where Gaudi got his inspiration.


A row of ornate streetlights.

Coat hanger sculpture in one of the many squares.



On our first full day we walked to Park Guell, maybe four miles, looking at Gaudi buildings along the way.



We could not get a ticket for Park Guell, so we settled for walking around the park. Although I am sure the section we did not pay for was stunning, the rest of the park was quite lovely and free.

Some Gaudi columns.


Closeup of a Gaudi column.



View of the sea from the top of the park.

Tomorrow Sagrada Familia.

Sagrada Familia

I’ve wanted to see this cathedral since I was in college...I think it was one of the English classes I took as a Freshman. The teacher spoke of the Art Nouveau movement and shared some of the philosophy and designs that came out of it. I remember being entranced with the movement, and wanted to see as much of it as possible in any museums I visited. 

So even though I am unsure whether Gaudi is really considered art nouveau, how is he not the ultimate expression of the style.

Of course we walked the two miles to the cathedral through a less glamorous portion of Barcelona. All the while we were looking for a good pastry shop, but alas there were none.

The cathedral did not disappoint. 

I am not sure what I think about the visit...so many people, so much decoration. 

Side view showing old and new structures 

The main entrance, original structures.

Inside

Jesus under umbrella.

A view from the top of a staircase leading down from the ‘passion’ tower.

A staircase...leading up to balconies (I think)

Layover in Montreal

I am on my way to France for another pilgrimage, but had obviously not had my coffee yet when I booked the flight...not only did I have an 8 am flight out of Newark, making it impossible to take the train to Newark the day of (I am unwilling to sleep in the airport), but I had a 12-hour layover in Montreal! No worry, I haven’t been to Montreal for several years, and last time it was 19 below zero!

Everyone was super sweet at the airport and I easily caught the shuttle, which gives you a day of free rides for 10 Canadian. I had planned to take the bus deeper into town, but saw the Atwater Market on my little google map, so when the bus stopped nearby, I got out.  

The market seems well out of the tourist area, though I did walk from there to the old city. It was so charming, and food was so beautifully displayed, I felt I really wanted to be able to do my grocery shopping here.

See photos and captions for details.

So sad, no dogs in the market


One of many sausage displays.

The purple in the middle are figs.

There were several florists, I kind of liked this arrangement.


Tiny blueberries...and so crazy late in the season, I believe they are from Quebec.

Real maple syrup in 1-lb cans. This would be $15-20 in U.S. It’s worth it to drive up there to get your fix.

Q
All local, there is an island north of Quebec City (Ile des Orleans) that grows berries in September, craziness.


Ho hum herbs, but again, September!


One of several bakeries in the market.


These tomatoes are so pretty, you must zoom in. I would like to get some seeds...


This guy had Vietnamese vegetables, tons of them...locally farmed. Why don’t we have that?


You gotta have your little pigs...but the candy was also stunning, I just like pigs.

Some wild mushrooms mixed with other interesting produce.

Loving the garlic display.

Next I walked through Montreal adjacent to the canal/river. Passed through two seemingly up and coming neighborhoods...places I’d never been. There was even a Salvation Army that had some interesting stuff, but a number of vintage stores too.

When I finally got to the Old City (Veaux Port?), I was pooped...six miles maybe? Stopped for lunch in a little outdoor cafe in a park where the staff had an outdoor staging area but ran back and forth across the street to the kitchen. Had a lovely prix fixe meal of smoked salmon, mushroom omelet, and sorbet and coffee....plus a glad of rose..US.$20. Oh and did I mention that the staff moved so quickly! Being alone, I tore through my meal pretty quickly, but they were on it, always knowing where I was in the order. They also ran from task to task, no walking. And, and I don’t know what this is, I felt cared for, noticed, even as a single older woman. I feel that in the U.S., no matter how good the staff, there would be a difference in the way I was served compared to a couple.

Oh and an aside....Several times in the last two days of travel I have been pushed aside by couples. I am first but they run in front, I am first but the hostess offers to seat them first, I am first but they slip into line in front of me. I keep wondering if I am imagining this...I can’t say I have ever noticed this in the past and wonder if it’s my imagination.

I must say I want to go back to Montreal soon and buy syrup and eat prix fixed meals.