Varanasi

This ancient city is more chaotic than Delhi. Much of our time here is spent in terror as our tuk tuk drives us from our hotel down to old Varanasi along the Ganges River. We are lucky because there is a festival going on so that many of the activities are special. It is Chatt Puja, a festival honoring the sun. Our tuk tuks drop us off a ways from the river because the city is congested with worshipers bringing offerings to the river. Men and women carry baskets of offerings: coconuts, fruit, milk, chrysanthemums. Many carry the offerings on their heads, wrapped in colorful cloths. As usual, motorcycles, cows, and dogs, as well as a few crazy tourists, are in the mix. Our group can barely stay together in the midst of this

Chime explains to us that this city was designed using Vastra Shaka (Indian Feng Shui) so that temple location is based on the seven chakras and minor temples represent the nadis. She says that many of the smaller temples are no longer there. 

The Ganges is an immense river. There are 90 ghats along the West Bank. Some, maybe all, have a specific purpose. Ghats are steps the descend into the water. During the monsoons, most of the steps are covered by water. Right now, the steps are visible, and you can even walk down to the muddy banks at some locations. 

Two of the ghats are for burning bodies. The incineration goes on day and night, but only those who die naturally can be cremated there. Some bodies are weighted and thrown in the river, although I am confused by what this does to the holy water and how many bodies are decomposing. Bodies must be cremated within 24 hours after death, so no planning can be done. The area around the cremation ghats are piled with wood everywhere, as there is no end to this work. She also said that some yogis hang around the ghats to pick up any stray energy that may be emanating from the bodies. And no women are allowed here. The male relatives must tend to the cremation while the women conduct their own rituals at home.There is no emotion here, as this is just a transition and there are more lives to come.

It is all too much, all of us are overwhelmed by the number of people and the chaos, yet we are fascinated. Hinduism is the oldest religion in the world, and this fact can be felt as worshippers place their offering baskets and pour milk into the Ganges. As strange as the activities seem, we feel them deeply as they originate from the beginning of mankind.

Priests at the sunrise ceremony. 

A scene from the boat.

Not sure what is going on here, under a covering a bit before sunrise on the Ganges.

Walking to the Ganges through the crowds

The ancient ones in the river (this is not my photo, but I certainly witnessed this.)


There is more to tell, I think we need a Varanasi Part II, coming soon.