Shompoo Cruise up the Mekong; Pakbeng Lodge

Today was lovely and interesting as I took a "luxury" cruise up the Mekong. We travelled 10 hours...through the muddy waters and saw fisherman, children, water buffalo, goats, villages, and even two elephants (not wild). The boat was nice, and  thank goodness functioned well. I had read horror stories of people packed onto boats like sardines for the 10-hour trip, so was happy that there were only 9 of us. Of course, I am the 9th, the single, with two groups of four. Definitely unbalancing! I am finding that I enjoy being alone though...it is not so different than my life at home. 

We stopped at the Pak Oi (sp?) caves to see the collection of buddhas. Apparently this cave began in the Hindu era but transitioned in the 16th century when buddhism came to Laos. I had my fortune told (because I had a translator handy). I cannot be sure what it really said, but it said I had a hard childhood (true), that my two children would be successful (true) and that I am healthy this year (no fevers) and that I would be happier married. He also said I am neither rich nor poor (true).

Of course I don't know what he left out!

Our two English speaking guides both learned English at the monastery. They are both Khamu and learned English at the Buddhist Monastery where their parents brought them when they were young. This is a familiar story in Asia it seems...the monestary serves as a vehicle for upward mobility similar to the  military in the states.

In March (and this is the month I am here)  there is slash and burn farming, leaving the air smokey. We saw lots of evidence of this on the ride up the mekong. I can't quite figure it out just by looking...I saw areas of a hillside where everything had been cut down ....but not burned. Other areas have been burned already. These are steep hills, so it will be difficult to farm! What are they growing here? I do not know. 

We saw large boats that transport cargoes of cinnamon from Thailand to Laos ... pretty cool. We all love cinnamon.

Tonight I stay upscale, but it turns out this is an isolated place so upscale is beautiful, but no aircon or wifi -- two essentials for me! But I am sitting here looking at the river with beautiful plantings and an elephant camp just across the river.

Shortly I go to the included dinner....surely sitting alone although the Russian contingent on the boat will be there too. Solo is different.

Luang Prabang Tak Bat, Cooking Class: Ballet

So I got up at 5:30 to see the monks collect alms from the citizens of Luang Prabang. Early morning very interesting (but not scary as it would be in the states). Someone was trying to sell me rice to give to the monks (no, not my style, if I give to monks, cook own rice), a tour company setting up little chairs for the tourists to sit in to give rice to monks, and so on. I did see a mother cat carry her quite large kitten somewhere. She was very frightened of me, understandably since I'm still not certain if they are food in Lao. 

I did eventually run into a kind person who told me that the monks don't show until 6:15, so I went back to my hotel for another cup of coffee and then ventured back. 

The monks, grouped by monastery (of which there are many) have collection bowls and collect food from the various folks who line the streets. I think they are collecting food for the day. Also, oldest monks are first, and then youngest are last. Some are children....the youngest I saw 13 or so. 

I don't know what to think of the whole thing. I took no photos out of respect...look it up. 

Later that day cooking class. Oh and did I mention I think I ate something bad yesterday so have roiling stomach. Thank goodness for the z-pak provided by my travel doc. Class was not nearly as good as Vietnam or Thailand and the food, once done, not so good either.

I did, however, taste ant eggs -- yum! Can't believe I tried them. This is because I ask too many questions.

In the evening I had tickets to the Lao ballet. Very very cool I enjoyed it way more than I thought even though parts (theater, proops) amateurish. The dancers were phenomenal, expressing all emotion via feet and hands. I am so glad I spent the time to see it. 

Luang Prabang, Temple Day

My third day in LP was totally open so decided to hit the tourist highlights:

1) Temple - Wat Xieng Thong

2) Climb Phu Si and visit the Wats along the way

3) foot massage

4) Royal Palace Museum 

5) Tribal Arts and Ethnology Centre

6) Night Handicraft Market

7) Hive Bar

8) Utopia

According to my iPhone's step counter, that was 24,000 steps...I think as much as 14 miles!

The temples...I should probably take a tour to understand the difference between these and Thailand. The ornamentation was interesting...a glass mosaic. It seems that every Wat has its own artistic theme. I know Wat Arun in Bangkok is made of dishes! 

The Royal Palace Museum was a reminder perhaps of why communism succeeded in this country (although truthfully, the U.S. is more communist)

The TAEC Museum had a small collection of tribal arts with some explanations. I watche a video about a Hmong medicine woman and about the resting period right after childbirth -- the woman sits by the fire for one month and rests and eats rice and drinks boiled water. 

The night handicraft market was mostly Chinese stuff (I think). I did buy a few scarves, but for the mostpart unappealing.

Hive Bar was interesting, but empty (okay it was 6:30 PM). Utopia took a long time to find...required a walk through windy back streets that didn't appear to be streets at all. It seemed to be a wonderland...jungle with tables nestled here and there and many different environments. I was of course the oldest and only alone person there. The staff was very sweet and put me at a low table with cuashions that allow you to recline! I certainly enjoyed recling after a day on my feet.

Arrive Luang Prabang

It turns out I am spoiled from the 10 days of luxury in Vietnam. Our hotels, tours, everything but the train ride were extremely pleasant. 

My room in Luang Prabang, though very well situated along the Mekong and a half-block from the Tak Bat (morning alms collection), is a bit sparse...toilet and shower room (meaning, shower, toilet, same, sink leaks out onto floor, encouraging one to just use the shower to wash one's hands since it all ends up on the floor anyway. Of course the room is very clean and has daily maid service and water. It's just very low-brow compared to previous. I came very close to changing, but when the internet came back on, decided to stay.

Walked around the city, found Ock Pop Tok, enjoyed sitting by the Mekong eating "river weeds."

There are two bamboo bridges in Luang Prabang connecting Luang Prabang with the opposite bank across the Nam Khan  River. I paid 7000 kip (about $1) to walk both ways. I must say it was awfully wobbly...it would never have gone over in the states. 

Weaving and Silk Dying

Barbara recommended classes at Ock Pop Tok, so my first few minutes in town, I signed up. A Tuk Tuk took me and three European women (also of a certain age) to the beautiful weaving village on the Mekong. We worked with natural materials -- wood, annatto, hemp, curcumin -- to make dies. We had pre-spun (thank goodness!) skeins of silk to dip in the vats of color.

The afternoon was spent weaving a silk placemat. Fortunately they set up the loom for us -- I'm convinced that's the most difficult step! They create intricate patterns in the loom by tying certain strings and not others. When you want to use the pattern, you use these string placeholders. Very complicated, don't totally understand.

I did most of mine myself. I had a full-time helper who kept reminding me when I was about to make a mistake and who helped untangle the thin silk threads (i'm sure a more experienced weaver would not have these snafus).

Today, two days later, my right leg -- the weaving leg -- is sore. Those women must be very strong!

Red bridge cooking school

Lazy day in hoi an / beach

The beach at Hoi An was the trip's biggest surprise. You would think I would have looked at a map! I hadn't been to the beach in years, and not to a gorgeous, unfettered beach since Macaroni Beach in Mustique in 2012 (?)

We ended up going three or four times -- almost every day! The beach has maybe a dozen restaurants fashioned out of bamboo. All have bathrooms and showers in the far rear. On the beach side they have chairs (use for free if you eat at the restaurant) and umbrellas (Palapas? can't think of word). It was so lovely to NOT HAVE high rises and concrete all around -- all of the structures were quite temporary. 

The water itself was lovely and not too much surf, which is nice for us old folks.

I would love to go back to Hoi An and spend time at one of the beach guest houses...a beach vacation. 

Hoi An itself was very hot and it was taxing to walk around. Also, the shops were quite repetitive...I ended up not buying anything even though I was tempted by lanterns. I decided, however, that I could probably order those lanterns when I get home via eBay.