Sightseeing in Addis Ababa

Today we toured Addis with our guide Abraham who was recommended by the adoption community in Seattle. He is indeed a treasure.

He took us up to Mount Entoto where King Melelik, the founder of Addis, lived.

The palace was very modest, built the traditional way with adobe (mud and straw) although the building was quite large. 

There were also two Eastern Orthodox churches and many nuns sitting around the periphery. We only knew they were nuns because of Abraham....they were dressed like Mary, but not in a uniform.

We toured the museum which contained Melelik crowns, thrones, old bibles in Amharic, and so on.

Abraham took us shopping to the fabric market and helped us negotiate a few purchases, and to a pottery shop run by former Ethiopian Jews.

Apparently these folks were descendents of the original Jew, but have since converted to Ethiopian Orthodox.

We each bought a few pieces of pottery.

The Ethopian National Museum (??) was very interesting with an exhibit showing Lucy and the There were also tribal costumes and Haile Salassie's throne.

Our final stop on this day was a visit to the Sod Abyssinia nightclub where the food was fabulous and the entertainment even better .... a dance and music group demonstrated many traditional Ethiopian dances.

One of the most interesting aspects was that the customers were mostly Ethiopian with a few Chinese, European and of course Americans. Makes you feel more like you're having an authentic experience!

Another Day at Sele Enat

Today was orphanage day again, but first we travelled to the Piazza (I believe shops built during the Mussolini occupation) to buy balls...soccer and volley. No Walmart here, everything small vendor. We are told by Lee (guest house host) that everything is cheaply made and doesn't last as long as in the states. We will never know, but the orphanage was filled with deflated balls, which is why we bought them.

Peggy, who works in a school, organized arts and crafts activities and I made some attempt to help, although as a non-teacher, this task was a bit beyond me. At the end there were crayons everywhere and markers with missing tops! 

Adanach was very attached to a two-year-old in the toddler room who was not yet walking. 

I attempted to play volleyball, but was quite rusty and almost immediately sprained my poor thumb. Peggy claims to have funny pictures of me attempting volleyball which I will not share here.

We had lunch at a little cafe, no sign, a block from the orphanage. This cafe was run by former Nannies of Layla House -- who were let go (as were all the staff) due to a problem (unknown). At that time Layla became Sele Enat.

At any rate, the nannies welcomed us and one thought she remembered Adanech. This was a real local cafe where workmen went for a quick lunch. The food was very good..Messer Wat? I need to learn the names of the dishes! They also had a lady in the corner making coffee and tea on a little brazier. The coffee was delicious! 

Driving and walking through Addis is a trip! Today we saw large cows, donkeys, and I think the same goats. No land planning here. As I look out from our kitchen, I see houses with small amounts of land surrounded by tall buildings, many unfinished. Everywhere there are cranes to building shells that look like they've been there for years. Walking so far has been either in dirt/mud or on sidewalks that have been dug up with many holes all around. Mind you there are areas that are city-like and stable such as the piazza, but it seems that there is quite a bit of the country inside of Addis.

Today we go to the ethnological museum where Lucy lives and to a fabric market. 

First Full Day Ethiopia

Tom booked an amazing suite for us at GT Guesthouse in Addis Ababa with three bedrooms, 3 baths, a living room, and kitchen. We are spoiled and I can assure you it makes going out very difficult.

Our first foray onto Addis soil was to get a SIM card was somewhat successful...no nanosims, so a two step process. Our walk to the sim-cutting store (which we never found) entailed walking around giant pits in the ground. No looking at your cell phone and waling here! 

People are very kind and helpful.

Our guest house manager Lewam is very competetent and helpful. And, because she lived in the U.S., her English is perfect with no gaps. I swear I hear a tinge of spanglish in her accent, which is non-existent...I thought she was American...Valley Girl meets New Jersey? No? She said she lived in Boston.

We finally made it to Sele Enat orphanage via the guest house driver (whose name must be written down for me in order to remember it). Modern buildings sit next to shells of modern buildings sit next to dirt roads. People are leading calfs through the dirt roads and we see a flock of goats, again on a dirt road. Just a few feet from our guest house are lean-tos made with sticks and plastic where people congregate for cups of tea....there were six of these in a row. Also, in the streets, lots of women wearing beautiful colors and headscarves, the occasional man with cloth draped over his head (Adanech claims this is not so, but I swear).

Mittin (probably spelled wrong) tooks us on a tour of Sele Enat. The orphanage was previously called Layla House and is where Adanech and Manyahashel lived before their adoptions. It is a sprawling complex of sleeping rooms, courtyards, and classrooms. The toddlers first, maybe six or eight in a room, were going down for a nap...there were a few rooms of them. Also there were a few rooms of babies..some of these babies were waiting to be picked up by adoptive parents. I had heard that there were no more Ethiopian adoptions, but in fact they have slowed down, but not stopped.

Peggy, Adanech, and I ended up holding several of the babies for a time..the ones who were awake that is...their swaddling is very cute..they wrap the blanket over the back of their heads so they are wearing little blanket headdresses.

Next we saw empty classrooms that were being painted by volunteers--terrible toxic smells! And then the room of developmentally disabled kids. These were maybe 8-14 year-old boys..did not see a comprable classroom of girls. Although there was no language, we managed to have a good time with them. Peggy had brought a bag of toys...stickers, balls, bubbles, and everyone was overjoyed to receive these little gifts.

Finally we went to the dorm of the older girls who were hanging in their bunks...rest time. Everyone is off school because of summer and the rainy season. One of the girls..Y____ began speaking to us in English and the next thing we knew, we were out in the yard hanging out with them and the parachute Peggy brought. 

Many children of all ages joined us for an afternoon of picture-taking, parachute playing, balloon blowing and popping and English practice. All of the pictures are from this time. 

Today we go back...for another day with the kids. 

The orphanage has several volunteers from Europe...high school girls who come   for one or two weeks to play with the children. 

Shompoo Cruise - Huay Xai

We were treated this morning to a view of the elephant camp across the river. The Mahouts were taking the elephants down for a bath. So exciting to see these magnificent creatures even from far away. I've decided I must go back to Pakbeng and participate in one of the elephant care programs. I don't care to ride them, but would enjoy an opportunity to be closer and to learn more about them. And Pakbeng is a beautiful little village with a few lodging choices and a lovely view of the Mekong.

The second day of the cruise was as lovely as the first. We stopped at a Kamu village...very poor. My only point of comparison is a Karen village in Thailand and I must say this was much poorer. I had nothing to give the children, so donated to the school. 

The cruise had nine passengers -- two groups of four--Russians and Germans. I thought perhaps someone would take me under their wing, but instead I was solo the entire time--all meals ALONE! It was a good experience I guess. I am learning very well how to eat ALONE at a restaurant. 

Last night at the Pakbeng lodge, I had cocktails with a group of French people who were on a tour of Laos. They were super nice! However, again, I dined ALONE at this relatively posh restaurant with courses served one at a time. It was all I could do to wait for all the courses to be served. But again, this is good practice

I've met many long-term travelers on this trip, which is inspirational. I definitely want to do a three-month trip when I retire, while I am still healthy enough to deal with a difficult place. 

Among those I've met:

1) German woman traveling alone for four months

2) two swiss ladies, my age, traveling together for 6 months

3) a brit guy traveling alone for 3 months

4) a Swiss (French) woman, 40, traveling for 6 months

5) A Quebecoise couple traveling for 4 months (and telling me about Yunnan China!)

I don't know if I have what it takes to travel   alone for months... I am told the internet makes it all possible, and certainly being able to install a simm crd from each country simplifies the world.

I had planned to stay three more days, but clipped my plans. I was going to do the one-night Gibbon Experience, but when I went to book, the lady told me I was too old. Well, not in so many words, but she said the age range was 12-50, and me at 65 am over the age limit. She said that it is a two mile climb up a mountain. Well, wait, she said it was a two-hour climb, which could be only a kilometer. Given that I have no recent experience climbing mountains, and given that everyone else there was in their twenties, I backed down. I am not proud of it, but then I am a pretty risk-averse person. There is another three-day program that does not involve the steep climb, but I was unwilling to forego Thailand and wait around in Huay Xai three more days. Also, the program is extremely expensive for the region ($200 for one night!) so I hesitated to throw that away in the event I couldn't make the climb.

Perhaps next time...after or before I visit the elephant camp, which is close by.

On a note of humor, when I got back to my hotel, the receptionist was laughing that they turned me away for being too old. He said, "you in good shape! I saw you walking up hill really fast!" He also said he had seen them take people much worse off than me. But aah, I hate to hold anyone up.

On my last morning in Laos, I contemplate this country. I would definitely come back to see more. It is very poor, but as a result, relatively unspoiled. Oh, I don't mention the garbage in the Mekong -- tons of it, or the trash heaps in the backyards of people whose houses back the Mekong. 

The country is not that well set up for tourism, which is part of its charm. There are surprises! Vietnam was so set up...mid-level hotels would almost qualify as luxury in the states with amazing service. For example, our hotel sent someone to actually get on the train with us to make sure we found our berths...and then kicked out a squatter! In Laos, if they had a train (??) we would have been on our own.

One reason I disliked my hotel in Luang Prabang was a somewhat surly attitude by the management. Only one person spoke English, but she was so reserved. 

I did hear a few other tourists mention this reserve...it must be a cultural personality trait, or perhaps the result of poverty or Buddhism? One woman I met (Swiss French, 40, traveling alone six months) was particularly struck by this and said the people in Nepal were amazing and always giving giant smiles. I hope to get there next trip.

One more thing: I don't really like Laotian food as much as Vietnamese and Thai. After Vietnam, disappointing. I am sure I have not tried the signature dishes that would change my mind. I do have the cookbook and will try to see if I can make something to enjoy when I get home.

Shompoo Cruise up the Mekong; Pakbeng Lodge

Today was lovely and interesting as I took a "luxury" cruise up the Mekong. We travelled 10 hours...through the muddy waters and saw fisherman, children, water buffalo, goats, villages, and even two elephants (not wild). The boat was nice, and  thank goodness functioned well. I had read horror stories of people packed onto boats like sardines for the 10-hour trip, so was happy that there were only 9 of us. Of course, I am the 9th, the single, with two groups of four. Definitely unbalancing! I am finding that I enjoy being alone though...it is not so different than my life at home. 

We stopped at the Pak Oi (sp?) caves to see the collection of buddhas. Apparently this cave began in the Hindu era but transitioned in the 16th century when buddhism came to Laos. I had my fortune told (because I had a translator handy). I cannot be sure what it really said, but it said I had a hard childhood (true), that my two children would be successful (true) and that I am healthy this year (no fevers) and that I would be happier married. He also said I am neither rich nor poor (true).

Of course I don't know what he left out!

Our two English speaking guides both learned English at the monastery. They are both Khamu and learned English at the Buddhist Monastery where their parents brought them when they were young. This is a familiar story in Asia it seems...the monestary serves as a vehicle for upward mobility similar to the  military in the states.

In March (and this is the month I am here)  there is slash and burn farming, leaving the air smokey. We saw lots of evidence of this on the ride up the mekong. I can't quite figure it out just by looking...I saw areas of a hillside where everything had been cut down ....but not burned. Other areas have been burned already. These are steep hills, so it will be difficult to farm! What are they growing here? I do not know. 

We saw large boats that transport cargoes of cinnamon from Thailand to Laos ... pretty cool. We all love cinnamon.

Tonight I stay upscale, but it turns out this is an isolated place so upscale is beautiful, but no aircon or wifi -- two essentials for me! But I am sitting here looking at the river with beautiful plantings and an elephant camp just across the river.

Shortly I go to the included dinner....surely sitting alone although the Russian contingent on the boat will be there too. Solo is different.

Luang Prabang Tak Bat, Cooking Class: Ballet

So I got up at 5:30 to see the monks collect alms from the citizens of Luang Prabang. Early morning very interesting (but not scary as it would be in the states). Someone was trying to sell me rice to give to the monks (no, not my style, if I give to monks, cook own rice), a tour company setting up little chairs for the tourists to sit in to give rice to monks, and so on. I did see a mother cat carry her quite large kitten somewhere. She was very frightened of me, understandably since I'm still not certain if they are food in Lao. 

I did eventually run into a kind person who told me that the monks don't show until 6:15, so I went back to my hotel for another cup of coffee and then ventured back. 

The monks, grouped by monastery (of which there are many) have collection bowls and collect food from the various folks who line the streets. I think they are collecting food for the day. Also, oldest monks are first, and then youngest are last. Some are children....the youngest I saw 13 or so. 

I don't know what to think of the whole thing. I took no photos out of respect...look it up. 

Later that day cooking class. Oh and did I mention I think I ate something bad yesterday so have roiling stomach. Thank goodness for the z-pak provided by my travel doc. Class was not nearly as good as Vietnam or Thailand and the food, once done, not so good either.

I did, however, taste ant eggs -- yum! Can't believe I tried them. This is because I ask too many questions.

In the evening I had tickets to the Lao ballet. Very very cool I enjoyed it way more than I thought even though parts (theater, proops) amateurish. The dancers were phenomenal, expressing all emotion via feet and hands. I am so glad I spent the time to see it. 

Luang Prabang, Temple Day

My third day in LP was totally open so decided to hit the tourist highlights:

1) Temple - Wat Xieng Thong

2) Climb Phu Si and visit the Wats along the way

3) foot massage

4) Royal Palace Museum 

5) Tribal Arts and Ethnology Centre

6) Night Handicraft Market

7) Hive Bar

8) Utopia

According to my iPhone's step counter, that was 24,000 steps...I think as much as 14 miles!

The temples...I should probably take a tour to understand the difference between these and Thailand. The ornamentation was interesting...a glass mosaic. It seems that every Wat has its own artistic theme. I know Wat Arun in Bangkok is made of dishes! 

The Royal Palace Museum was a reminder perhaps of why communism succeeded in this country (although truthfully, the U.S. is more communist)

The TAEC Museum had a small collection of tribal arts with some explanations. I watche a video about a Hmong medicine woman and about the resting period right after childbirth -- the woman sits by the fire for one month and rests and eats rice and drinks boiled water. 

The night handicraft market was mostly Chinese stuff (I think). I did buy a few scarves, but for the mostpart unappealing.

Hive Bar was interesting, but empty (okay it was 6:30 PM). Utopia took a long time to find...required a walk through windy back streets that didn't appear to be streets at all. It seemed to be a wonderland...jungle with tables nestled here and there and many different environments. I was of course the oldest and only alone person there. The staff was very sweet and put me at a low table with cuashions that allow you to recline! I certainly enjoyed recling after a day on my feet.