However, in and around lalibela, there don't appear to be police checkpoints. Our guide Mas said that because this is a tourist area, perhaps they don't check as much? He didn't know, I don't think he drives.
Some homes have no windows and mud floors, others are concrete and tile. Everywhere children follow us. At the market, they say "you, you, you," the only English word they know, apparently. The kids and some adults have a gesture where they put their hands to their mouths to indicate they are hungry. Creepy. Apparently I have the hardest heart in the world because I do walk by and put on my best Philly hard shell and don't think of how physically miserable their lives are.
Hospitality and overfeeding is routine, in spite of the poor economy.
The diet is starchy. You cannot eat a traditional meal without consuming large amounts of injera...it is your knife, fork, and spoon. For this reason, and because of the enormous quantities of bread of various types at each meal, it's pudgy going here and diet time when I get home. Also, no butter so the diet is low fat, but also no fruit and vegetables. Okay, collards on the plate of injera, but then you need to eat bread along with them.
I am happy to be back in Addis for one night for the modern conveniences. I worry that Lalibela will be like Awassa in terms of plumbing and conveniences.
Religion
Ethiopia is remarkable for its religions. The ones I've encountered (Orthodox, Evangelist, Islam) all take their lead from ancient Abrahamic law....they follow customs from thousands of years ago. Among them are:
1. separating men and women at worship
2. head covering for married women (this now practiced only in the country)
3. no pork, snakes, insects, etc. -- see Jewish and Islamic law for the restrictions, but they hold
4. no horse meat (?? not sure if this is religious law or the need to not eat your transportation)
5. Davening during prayers....we saw it today
Female Genital Mutilation -- 98% Really? Really? All those women? It has been outlawed, but is a tradition across protestant, Catholic, Jew Islam. I think I deludedly thought it was only Islam. I did a little reading on my tiny phone....it was made illegal around 1994. There are charts showing prevalence in age groups and there are fewer in the 1-15 age range consistent with policy, but it is still common. I also read that sometimes it is done in childhood similar to boys, and at other times it is done at adolescence and still others before marriage, but the absolute must is before childbirth! I know that I hate the thought of it, but at the same time I was very upset with reactions to an Atlantic article (Q&A with an anthropologist who studies it) where they condemned all the people who practice it. You know it is promoted by women as the ultimate femininity. I am also curious, and can probably assume that many of the girls and women I met here were "circumcised."
At the cousin's house, the men (and us) ate while the women watched. We did not see this on the mother's side or at Etenesh's house...Pretty embarassing for us. Is it desert culture?
In Lalibela you could not walk the streets without being approached by young men who wanted to talk. Peggy and I both attracted several of these young men. Some were smoother than others...at the last day I had a line of 6 young men at the door of the hotel. I am so popular in my dotage!
1. Tam... a 23-year old high school student that our guide attached to us
2. Mas, our guide,
3. Mas's friend
4. Young man I met on street who I promised to give Ethiopia guide book to, plus buy leather crosses
5. Young man's friend
6. Mas II, a junior guide that we took a liking to.
All got money except Mas's friend...
Right now it is 7:00 AM on our departure day. It has been a remarkable trip, somewhat luxurious, though not totally, and certainly educational. I wonder what can be done to ease the burden of these remarkable people, and then wonder the impact. The people are generally beautiful, friendly, religious, tied to family and community. Do we want to end that?
But the beggars and even the opportunistic beggars (ooh, white people in our neighborhood, please give us money). It's not right and it rarely happens in the U.S. YET.
What is the best way to support this place? What is the best way to help ease povery in the United States? There is certainly plenty of it, and hustling in the U.S. I just remembered a young boy who offered to transport my groceries at the local shop rite. I always say no to these kids, but the kid seemed so nice and I had tip money on me (always an issue you know?) At any rate, I ended up giving him a ride home...he asked for a ride because he had been ripped off on the way home recently and didn't want the incident repeated. I asked him how he knew I wouldn't hurt him....I guess he figured that out okay. So this kid wasn't hungry and has public education and a roof over his head. He is not a street child. But what future does he have really? I don't know the answer, just thinking about Philly's poverty.
And a last thought: here, the wealthy are a little overweight -- not a lot, but a little. The poor are rail thin. This really makes me re-think the "thin and rich" mythology of the U.S. and even question the "thin and rich" folks who deny their hunger for the sake of fashion. Is it a slap in the face of the people who earn their thinness by a constant level of hunger that they cannot control?
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