Temple 11 - Fujiidera walked more or less from 10
Shosanji - took a ride from a car Henro
Miles between temples according to guidebook 9.7 km (5.82) We got ride between 12 and 13, the most grueling part of the trail
Miles according to iphone: 6.1
It's snowing outside as we sit in our tatami room looking out over the mountains. We sit on cushions with our legs under a heated table covered by blankets. We've just had a bath and we are wearing yukata and a quilted howri as we await the arrival of our vegetarian meals.
Our Henro way involves flexibility. We have met a number of European walking Henro who are sticking to walking the entire way. We, on the other hand, seem to have a very laissez faire attitude. Laura's foot has been bothering her. The walking path between temples 11 and 12 involves six to seven miles straight up. And most importantly, we don't have time to walk the entire 700 miles and had always planned to bus it some of the time. This ascent is often the final day of the pilgrimage for dedicated pilgrims. Not so for us. We did walk to Temple 11, a mostly flat path walking through farms, across rivers and highways, and through neighborhoods until the ascent to the very modest Fujiidera. However, Laura has been worried about ruining her foot for the rest of the trip and I of course have been worried all along that I couldn't make it.
Tree growing in middle of temple grounds
Problem solved, hitch a ride! We went to the temple office at 11 to ask if there was any place to stay to break up the ascent, but ended up asking if it was okay to solicit rides from car Henro. Within ten minutes, the temple clerk, who was very excited to speak with Americans, had arranged a ride with a Japanese couple our age. On the harrowing ride filled with hairpin turns, 1000 meter drops without guard rails and two-way traffic on a one-way road, Laura shared her bag of candy corn and almonds. On arrival at Shosanji we each gave the couple an ofuda -- the Henro's calling card and thank you note which has our name, address, and date.
But let's get back to the cutting of corners as a pilgrim. Is it wrong? Most pilgrims take busses or drive their own cars. Our ride yesterday was planning to take a week to visit the 88 temples. So, we are walking half and driving half. We are half car Henro and half walking. I think it's okay. And in a way, our approach is novel. The guidebook never mentions hitching a ride between temples, but provides bus and train routes and phone numbers for local cab companies. Hitchhiking Henro?
Tonight we are in Shosanji-Ji temple accommodations in a lovely, non-greasy tatami room. The meals are vegetarian and vegan. I have been wanting to stay in a temple, so this was our chance. And with cherry blossom season coming, it is likely that temples will be full for the rest of our journey. Tonight the lodging is nearly empty because of the snow. Most lodging visitors are bus Henro. Given the narrow, treacherous roads, the bus would not be able to leave the temple in the morning as planned.
Tomorrow is 13.5 miles, mostly downhill, and it's currently snowing. This may not happen. We must be flexible.
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