39 - Enko-Ji
Slept at: M. Shima-ya Minshuku
Miles walked: 4.8
We were going to walk to 38, but the rain! It pounded the roof the night before and seemed likely to continue all day, so we took a bus down to the temple, which turned out to be magnificent. I read that this location is a favorite for suicides....at least its victims' last view of the world is pure loveliness. It seems they transported stalagmites and giant sea corals to their rock gardens.
From 38 we hitched a ride -- a long one -- to temple 39. It was early because we had planned on a longer walk, so we dropped our packs off at the Minshuku and walked to the nearest convenience store and to a second-hand store called "Garage Second."
Minshukus are family-run guest houses that also serve meals. I am told by an American pilgrim with a Japanese wife that the difference between a minshuku and ryokan is at the discretion of the owner. Some minshukus have amazing service and others are down on their luck. This minshuku was in that category. There seems to be no correlation between price and quality. Such is the lot of the poor pilgrim, who should never complain.
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