Days 19 and 20 - Matsuyama

Temple 45 Iwayaji
Temple 46 Jōruriji
Temple 47 Yasakaji
Temple 48 Sairinji
Temple 49 Jōdoji

Day 20
Temple 50 Hantaji
Temple 51 Ishiteji

Miles walked:
Day 19: 11.7, most with pack
Day 20: 8.6, none with pack

Slept at: APA Hotel

We walked up to Temple 45, which turned out to be hundreds of steps up and around the mountain. Usually the climbing occurs after the temple administrative buildings, meaning we can drop our packs before the climb. Not here! Even bus pilgrims must climb all the way to the top to visit the temples. Once we had paid our respects, the next step was to get a ride the long distance to Matsuyama and Temple 46. This seemed impossible after we waited in the open parking lot in the rain. Of course we made a scene here. I went to a nearby shop to get out from the rain and we somehow enlisted the help of a man who spoke enough English to understand our plan. He then asked some pilgrims coming off the trail,if they were headed to "46." After an hour of this, we looked into taking a bus, and even went to the bus stop where we found out the bus would not arrive for an hour. Back up to continue hitching, at least until the bus was scheduled. Shortly after our re-arrival, we found a lovely couple who unhesitatingly offered to take us. It was over an hour in the car, soaking wet pack on lap, and it was wonderful! 

Once in Matsuyama, there were six temples in a row to visit, technically doable, but it turns out no, we got a late start. After 49, it was time to make a scene by taking a train from near the temple to our hotel. This is where I love my iphone and google maps. There was a train a few blocks from the temple that would take us to the general vicinity of our hotel. We got to the station (though a bit late because I forgot my stick again and had to retrieve it from the temple). The ticket seller helped us buy our tickets from the vending machine. The train was in the station, but across the tracks, so we waddled over where the train barrier banged me on the head as the train left the track. Not to be outdone, Laura climbed under the barrier. The ticket seller ran over to us, not to chide us for unwittingly ignoring safety procedures, but to tell us the next train is in 15 minutes.

Philly Jesus, I know how you feel after leaving the pilgrim trail and riding a train dressed in pilgrim costume.

I am coming to realize that, like the airport, many public transportation officials know enough English to help out ignorant tourists! This is quite a revelation and encourages me to take more public transit.


Matsuyama is lovely and in full bloom. Our hotel rooms look over at the Matsuyama Castle grounds, which are fully in bloom.

We slogged up the hill to the Castle, which was a breeze without our backpacks. The Castle seemed immense as you looked up the thick stone walls. In the Castle, shoes came up and we climbed up steps/ladders to reach the upper chambers. The views were even more incredible.

Pushing aside Japanese children, we dressed up as samurai for a photo op! 

I was determined to visit Temples 50 and 51 and to take a bath at the famous Dogo Onsen -- the oldest onsen in Japan. To do this, I successfully, and without drama, took the train to the Temple and walked the interminable 5 or 6 kilometers to Dogo Onsen. This Onsen does not have a hotel attached, but it seems many ryokans in the vicinity allow access to the onsen because many people on the street were wearing Onsen attire: Yucata (informal kimono), howrie (jacket), and Geta (wooden flip flops).

I entered the onsen, removed my shoes, and went to the counter where I was told to go outside and buy a ticket. There were three options. I ran into an American/Canadian Henro, fluent in Japanese, at the window and he helped me figure out the menu. I ordered a bath with yukata, no towel, and tea in a public room. The lower end option was bath only and the higher included tea in a private room. I was glad to have been to other baths, but still found the instructions, obviously provided using google translate, incomprehensible. I was told to leave my jacket in the big public room, but take everything else to the bath and the return to the bath, and afterwards return in the yukata.

Dogo Onsen

I went downstairs, put my belongings and yukata in a locker, and went into the bath. I was the only westerner in the bath -- not unusual. I sat down on one of the little wooden stools and grabbed a wooden bucket. I had not been given a washcloth, but located one, although I'm not at all sure I was supposed to have one since I hadn't paid extra. The woman next to me, and indeed many of the women, were ancient. She was bent over with age, but had no problem sitting on the tiny stool. She scrubbed and scrubbed, and I scrubbed and scrubbed. I was determined to scrub as long as she did, but failed again, by getting bored after scrubbing every part of my body two or three times. the bath was full --maybe 20 women were enjoying it -- but I found a place to slip in and relax after today's walk. The women sat in small groups, enjoying intimate conversations. I saw one woman, my age r older, sitting on her feet in the washing area while lathering her hair. Ouch! I am amazed at the flexibility earned by living so low to the ground --- tables, beds, bath stools never more than 18 inches from the ground.

After I had soaked away my fatigue, I went back to my locker. After the bath, I was supposed to put on my yukata and then go to the large public room for tea. But wait, if I put the yukata without getting dressed first, I will have to change my clothes in the public room! What to do? I decided in favor of modesty and got dressed (with difficulty no towel) and put the yukata on over my clothes.

I am so glad I was able to visit this ancient bathhouse.